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The trick that makes this desktop double as storage is a spacer: the two 1x3 frames get set 1/2" in from the plywood's edge using a scrap of 1/2"-thick plywood as a guide, which leaves exactly enough of a lip for the hinged side panels to close down flush later. Skip the spacer and eyeball the setback instead, and the hinged panels either won't close flush or will bind against the frame.
The center panel is fixed in place, but the two side panels hinge with the pin facing out the back when closed — a small detail that keeps the hinge hardware from being visible or catching on anything while you're working at the desk. This is also a good spot to build in cable management: a power strip and a divider board with cable-pass holes under the fixed center panel turns one of the compartments into a proper charging station for very little extra effort.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| Project panel plywood, 1/2", 24" x 48"3/4" works too, but adds 1/2" to the finished desktop thickness. | 2 each |
| Pine, 1x3, 8 ft | 2 each |
| Butt hinges | 2 set |
| Pocket hole screws, 1-1/4" | 1 box |
| Wood glue | 2 oz |
Overall cost: $$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Frame short piecesPine | 4 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 13 1/2" |
| Frame long piecesPine | 4 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 21 1/2" |
| Bottom panel, fullProject panel plywood | 1 | 1/2" × 24" × 48" |
| Top panel, centerProject panel plywood | 1 | 1/2" × 24" × 21" |
| Top panels, sidesProject panel plywood | 2 | 1/2" × 24" × 13 1/2" |
Buy 4 boards at 8 ft.
2 boards
2 boards
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
Build two identical frames from the 1x3 pieces using pocket holes and glue, sized to fit under the two hinged top panels.
Attach the two frames to the bottom plywood panel, set in 1/2" from the edge. A scrap of 1/2"-thick plywood makes a reliable spacer — run it along the edge as you position each frame instead of eyeballing the setback.
Cut the top panel into three pieces — one fixed center piece and two side pieces. Attach the center piece on top of the two 1x3 frames; this is also a good place to add extra 1x3 supports underneath to create a back or middle divider (a power strip with a 1x3 cable-pass divider turns this into a charging area). Hinge the two side panels on with the butt hinges, oriented so the hinge pin sits out the back when the panels are closed.
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