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Step-by-step build — 8 steps. Also available as a print sheet.
Attach the 1x2 trim to the panel boards, using screws from the back (1-1/4") to hide screw holes if you don't have a finish nailer. Use glue and square up the assembly as you go.
Attach the 2x6 base to the bottom of the panel. Predrill at an angle from the back if you only have a countersink bit, and use 2-1/2" screws and glue.
Attach the headboard legs to the back of the panel the same way as the base. Then attach the 1x3 top panel — for extra confidence, a scrap 1/4" plywood strip across the top and legs from behind can back up a shallow toe-nailed angle screw.
Fit and cut the chair rail and base cap moulding to your own assembled headboard and panel rather than to the cut list numbers — test 45° corner cuts on scrap moulding first. Glue and pin-nail in place if you have a finish nailer, or glue and clamp otherwise. Avoid letting glue dry on bare wood in areas that will be stained.
Screw the platform joists and sides together like wall framing, checking for square as you go. Use glue and 3" screws, countersunk.
Attach the siderails and footrail, either screwed from the inside with 2" screws and glue, or finish-nailed from the outside.
Build the platform legs and attach flush to the top of the platform frame. Mark the headboard legs at 14-1/2" and predrill from the back of the headboard into the platform frame. Attach with 3" screws and NO glue, so the bed can be disassembled later.
Fill any exposed holes and imperfections with wood filler, let dry, sand with medium grit in the direction of the grain, and vacuum clean. Prime and paint, or stain, as desired. Add plywood or wood slats on top of the platform frame if using without a box spring.