Laminated Canoe Paddle

Mill all your hardwood strips to a consistent 1.25" (32mm) thickness. This single number is the shaft's future cross-section — every strip needs to agree with it before glue-up, because you can't correct thickness after the blank is assembled.

Glue all the strips into a single blank in one clamping session — the whole length needs even pressure at once, not section by section. Let it cure fully before touching a saw to it.

Trace a paddle outline onto the blank: overall length about equal to your own chin height, with the grip positioned so your hands land a bit more than shoulder-width apart on the shaft. Cut the profile on the bandsaw.

Mark a centerline down both faces of the blade, then resaw close to the shoulder lines on the bandsaw to remove bulk waste before hand-shaping — this saves a lot of plane and sander work later.

Hand-shape the blade down to about 1/4" (6mm) thickness with a block plane, checking constantly against the centerline so you don't shape one side thinner than the other. Round the shaft with a router roundover bit and/or block plane.

Sand progressively to a smooth finish across the whole paddle. Optionally reinforce the blade tip with fiberglass cloth and epoxy if it'll see rocky shallows.

Apply several light coats of spar urethane, sanding lightly between coats.