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This dresser's defining trick is skipping drawer slide hardware entirely: two identical 2x4 face frames, front and back, are joined by horizontal 2x4s that the drawers simply glide across on 1x2 guides screwed down on top. Getting the two face frames genuinely identical is the single most important thing in this build — the plan is explicit that mismatched frames are what makes drawers run cockeyed, so build them side by side and check them against each other before joining anything else.
Once the frames are joined by the horizontal 2x4s, the 1x2 guides go on top, screwed down loosely with just two screws each so they can be adjusted later if a drawer binds — a deliberate under-fastening, not an oversight. Build each drawer box 1/4" smaller in width and height than its opening, leaving a consistent 1/8" gap on all sides once installed; too tight and a plain wood-on-wood slide binds immediately, no hardware forgiving the error the way metal slides would.
Side panels, trim, and the top go on last, and the top gets built separately with pocket holes before final attachment — treat it as its own small subassembly rather than something you fasten piece by piece in place, since keeping it flat and square off to the side is easier than fighting gravity and clamps on top of an already-standing dresser.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| 2x4, 8 ft | 8 each |
| 2x2, 8 ft | 3 each |
| 1x2, 8 ft | 3 each |
| 1x4, 3 ft | 1 each |
| 1x6, 8 ft | 2 each |
| 1x10, 24 ft total | 24 ft |
| 1x12, 8 ft | 1 each |
| 1/4" plywood, half sheet | 1 each |
| Pocket hole screws, 1-1/4" and 2-1/2" | 200 each |
| Brad nails, 1-1/4" | 80 each |
| Wood glue | 6 oz |
| Drawer pulls | 6 each |
| Primer and paint, or stain and poly | 1 set |
Overall cost: $$$$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Face frame verticals2x4, 8 ft | 4 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 31" |
| Face frame top/bottom horizontals2x2, 8 ft | 4 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 43 1/2" |
| Face frame drawer horizontals2x4, 8 ft | 2 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 43 1/2" |
| Face frame mid uprights2x2, 8 ft | 4 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 11 1/2" |
| Connecting rails2x4, 8 ftShould match the width of three 1x6s. | 10 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 16 1/2" |
| Drawer guides1x2, 8 ft | 8 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 16 1/2" |
| Side panels1x6, 8 ft | 6 | 3/4" × 5 1/2" × 29 1/2" |
| Side trim, 1x21x2, 8 ftCut to fit. | 4 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 16 1/2" |
| Side trim, 1x41x4, 3 ftCut to fit. | 2 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 16 1/2" |
| Drawer sides1x10, 24 ft total | 6 | 3/4" × 9 1/4" × 12 1/4" |
| Drawer front/back1x10, 24 ft total | 12 | 3/4" × 9 1/4" × 17" |
| Drawer bottoms1/4" plywood, half sheet | 6 | 1/4" × 17 3/4" × 13 1/4" |
| Drawer faces1x12, 8 ft | 6 | 3/4" × 11 1/4" × 13 1/4" |
| Top boards2x4, 8 ft | 6 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 47 1/2" |
| Top end boards2x4, 8 ft | 2 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 21" |
Buy 24 boards at 8 ft.
9 boards
Build the front and back face frames identically — this is critical, or the drawers will run crooked. Use pocket holes throughout, and consider drilling upward-facing pocket holes on the inside for attaching the top later.
Attach the two face frames together with the connecting rails, making sure the frames are directly in line with each other.
Attach the 1x2 drawer guides on top of the connecting rails, square to the front face frame. Use only two screws per guide so they can be adjusted later.
Build each drawer box 1/4" smaller in width and height than its opening, leaving an 1/8" gap on all sides.
Once satisfied with the drawer fit, attach the side panels to the frames.
Trim the side panels with 1x2 and 1x4 boards to keep the look consistent.
Build the top as its own subassembly with pocket holes, then attach it to the dresser. Attach the drawer faces and pulls, then sand and finish.
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Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →