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A backed bar stool at counter height, built from cheap dimensional lumber and pocket screws. The taller back legs run all the way up to form the backrest, and a ladder of 1x3 rails between them gives the back its look and its rigidity. It's a repeatable build — make one to dial in the process, then knock out a matching set.
The geometry is all in the rail placement, so be consistent. On the front legs the bottom rail sits 4-1/2" up; on the back legs the first rail is 12" up with the back rails spaced 2" apart. And when you join the front and back with the side rails, keep the top rails consistent on all four sides — all flush to the outside edge, or all set in — or the seat won't sit flat and square.
The seat is five 1x4 slats screwed down from underneath through upward-facing pocket holes, so no fasteners show on top. Place the frame upside down on the seat slats, center it with an even gap all around, and fix it. Sand the joints well to knock down any pocket-hole proud spots and clean off glue squeeze-out before finishing — on a seat, every rough spot gets found.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| 2x2 board, 8 ftLegs and bottom rails. | 3 each |
| 1x2 board, 6 ftBack frame seat trim. | 1 each |
| 1x3 board, 6 ftFront, back, and side rails. | 2 each |
| 1x4 board, 8 ftSeat slats. | 1 each |
| Pocket-hole screws, 1-1/4" and 2-1/2" | 40 each |
| Wood glue | 3 oz |
Overall cost: $. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Front legs2x2 | 2 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 24" |
| Back legs2x2 | 2 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 45" |
| Bottom rails, front/back2x2 | 2 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 14 1/2" |
| Bottom rails, sides2x2 | 2 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 15 1/2" |
| Seat trim, back frame1x2 | 1 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 14 1/2" |
| Rails, front and back1x3 | 6 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 14 1/2" |
| Top rails, sides1x3 | 2 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 15 1/2" |
| Seat slats1x4 | 5 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 18 1/2" |
Buy 7 boards at 8 ft.
3 boards
1 board
2 boards
1 board
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
Join the two 24" front legs with one 14-1/2" 1x3 and a 14-1/2" 2x2, placing the bottom edge of the 2x2 rail 4-1/2" up from the bottom of the legs. Drill the pocket holes for the rails and fasten with glue and screws.
Join the two 45" back legs with four 14-1/2" 1x3s and a 14-1/2" 2x2, placing the 2x2 rail 12" up from the bottom and spacing the 1x3 back rails 2" apart. This ladder forms the backrest.
Connect the front and back frames with a 15-1/2" 1x3 and a 15-1/2" 2x2 on each side. Keep the top rails consistent on all four sides — all flush to the outside edge or all set in — so the seat sits flat.
Add the back 1x3 rail with its top flush with the two side rails and flush to the front of the leg. Drill upward-facing pocket holes on the inside and fix the 14-1/2" 1x2 seat trim to it, ready to grab the seat.
Drill upward pocket holes on the inside of the frame. Place the five 1x4 seat slats good-side-down and set the upturned stool frame on them, centered with an even gap all around, then fasten from underneath. Sand the joints well and remove glue residue, then stain or paint.
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