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This is a straightforward pocket-hole build with one genuinely nice design touch: the slatted back is easy to reconfigure. The plan calls for a fixed number of evenly-spaced 1x2 slats, but an X-back, fewer wider slats, or more narrow ones all work as long as the overall height and width stay the same — so treat the back as the one place to make this bench your own without changing anything structural.
The optional arched top on the back rail is a nice detail for very little extra work: mark in from each end and down slightly, cut the curve with a jigsaw, then round it over with a sander until it reads as an arch rather than a jigsaw cut. Build the storage box with its pocket holes facing down and inward before assembly — once the front and back frames go on, you won't be able to see or reach them.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| Pine, 1x12, 10 ftSeat, sides, center divider, cubby bottom. | 1 each |
| Pine, 1x3, 8 ftBack panel boards. | 1 each |
| Pine, 2x2, 8 ft | 3 each |
| Pine, 1x2, 8 ftBack slats, trim. | 2 each |
| Pocket hole screws, 1-1/4" and 2-1/2" | 1 box |
| Brad nails, 1-1/4" | 1 box |
| Wood glue | 6 oz |
Overall cost: $$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Back slatsPine 1x2 | 8 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 6" |
| Back panel boardsPine 1x3 | 2 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 33" |
| Back legsPine 2x2 | 2 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 28 1/2" |
| Back support / bottom / front railsPine 2x2 | 3 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 33" |
| SeatPine 1x12 | 1 | 3/4" × 11 1/4" × 36" |
| SidesPine 1x12 | 2 | 3/4" × 11 1/4" × 11" |
| Center dividerPine 1x12 | 1 | 3/4" × 11 1/4" × 9 1/2" |
| Cubby bottomPine 1x12 | 1 | 3/4" × 11 1/4" × 33" |
| End trimPine 1x2Width matches your actual 1x12 — adjust to fit. | 4 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 11 1/4" |
| Front trimPine 1x2 | 1 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 36" |
| Front legsPine 2x2 | 2 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 17 1/4" |
Buy 8 boards at 8 ft.
3 boards
2 boards
1 board
2 boards
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
Mark the back 1x3 boards for slat placement and drill a 3/4" pocket hole in each end of every slat. With glue applied, one 1-1/4" pocket hole screw per end is enough. For the optional arched top, measure in 9" from each end of the top back board and down 1", draw a line between the marks, cut with a jigsaw, and round the arch over with a sander.
Attach the back panel to the back legs with two 3/4" pocket holes per end and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws. Attach the bottom 2x2 the same way.
Set your pocket-hole jig to the 3/4" setting. Drill four pocket holes along both long edges of the seat and cubby bottom for the front and back frames (step 6) — keep these facing down so they're hidden once finished. Drill two pocket holes on each end of the bottom piece and on the top ends of the side pieces. Attach the sides to the seat, the bottom to the sides, then position the center divider and attach it with brad nails and glue.
Measure and cut the 1x2 end trim pieces to fit, then attach with 1-1/4" brad nails and glue.
Set the pocket-hole jig to the 1-1/2" setting and join the 2x2 front legs and rails with 2-1/2" pocket hole screws and glue. Nail and glue the 1x2 front trim to the top.
Attach the front leg assembly and the back panel assembly to the middle storage section through the predrilled pocket holes. Add extra screws anywhere it feels like it needs more hold.
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