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Step-by-step build — 7 steps. Also available as a print sheet.
Before cutting anything, confirm the governing dimensions match the base cabinets this will sit beside: a 34-1/2" tall by 22-1/4" wide side panel with a 4-1/2" x 2-1/2" toe kick is the standard here. If your run differs, adjust every part to match. A corner cabinet's whole job is to align with its neighbors.
Attach the bottom shelf leaving a 5" space beneath it — use the 5" wide plywood base-support pieces as spacers to line it up. Drill 3/4" pocket holes along the underside of the side edges now, for attaching the sides next.
Attach the sides to the back and bottom, keeping the 5" gap under the bottom shelf consistent. Drill 3/4" pocket holes along the front edges of the sides now for the face frame later — you won't be able to reach them once assembled.
Rather than buying a whole sheet for the top, use a scrap from the back — it must start at least 34" x 20". Cut the angled pie-cut front into it. Drill 3/4" pocket holes facing forward on the pie-cut front edges for attaching the angled face frame.
Build the face frame separately with 3/4" pocket holes, 1-1/4" pocket screws, and glue, then attach through the predrilled pocket holes. The face frame overextends the sides by 1/4" so it can scribe to the neighboring cabinets.
Hang the pie-cut door on concealed euro hinges. Match the door height to the other base cabinets; the door width should be 3/8" wider than the inside opening of the face frame for proper overlay.
Unlike the flat base cabinets, this corner has no 1/4" back to screw to the wall. Add scrap plywood blocking where you'll fasten the cabinet to the wall studs. Then sand and finish to match your kitchen.