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This is a small-footprint outdoor dining table built for balconies, patios, and tight decks where a full-size table won't fit. It's an all-2x2 frame with a 1x3 slatted top, and it's a beginner-friendly build — every joint is a pocket screw or a countersunk screw, every cut is straight.
The design carries a couple of outdoor-specific smarts worth respecting. First, the slatted top: spaced 1x3 decking lets rain drain straight through instead of pooling on a solid surface. Second — and this is the one that saves the table — keep every pocket hole facing down. An exposed, upward-facing pocket hole is a little cup that collects water and rots the joint from the inside; turning them under is what makes a pocket-hole table survive outdoors. The plan repeats this for both the top frame and the legs.
The stretcher between the leg bases is what keeps the whole base square and stops the legs from wobbling — center it (12-7/8" from the outsides) and it does real work. Assembly is easy: build the top frame, build two leg assemblies, flip everything upside down and screw the frame onto the legs, then add the stretcher. Use exterior screws and an outdoor sealant or deck stain, and this table will hold up season after season.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| 1x3, 8 ftDecking. Cedar or treated for outdoors. | 5 each |
| 2x2, 8 ftFrame, legs, stretcher. | 5 each |
| Exterior screws, 2-1/2 inOr 2-1/2" pocket screws. | 1 box |
| Exterior screws, 2 in | 1 box |
| Waterproof wood glue | 1 bottle |
| Outdoor sealant or deck stain | 1 quart |
Overall cost: $$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Frame ends/supports2x2 | 7 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 24 1/2" |
| Frame sides/stretcher2x2 | 3 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 44 3/4" |
| Legs2x2 | 4 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 29 1/4" |
| Decking1x3 | 10 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 47 3/4" |
Buy 16 boards at 8 ft.
6 boards
10 boards
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
Build the tabletop frame, marking every joint and either drilling pocket holes or using a countersink bit from the outside. Attach with 2-1/2" screws and waterproof glue. Check for square and set aside.
Build two leg assemblies the same way as the top frame. If you're using pocket holes, keep them facing the bottom — an exposed, upward pocket hole pools water and can rot the table from the joint out.
Turn the whole thing upside down and attach the tabletop frame to the legs with waterproof glue and 2-1/2" screws. Working upside down makes the drill easy to get on the joints.
Center the stretcher on the leg-base end boards (12-7/8" from the outsides) and attach with screws and glue. The stretcher keeps the base square and the legs stable — it's structural, not decorative.
Fasten the 1x3 decking across the top with even gaps between boards for drainage, using 2" screws and glue. Sand everything smooth and seal with an outdoor sealant or deck stain — untreated wood left raw won't last on a patio.
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