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The defining feature here isn't the tree shape — it's that the whole thing disassembles. Every tier is built as its own separate layer and only temporarily test-fit against the layer above during construction; final assembly is a stack held together by screws through the overlapping laps, not glue, which is exactly what makes it collapsible for storage the other eleven months of the year.
Cedar fence pickets are a genuinely good material choice here even indoors — they're wider and cheaper per square foot than typical 1x6 pine, and the source's substitution note (1x6 for the frame, thinner fence pickets for the back) is worth following since the thicker frame stock gives brad nails more to bite into. Finish every tier as separate pieces before final stacking — it's far easier to get an even stain coat into every angled corner while the layers are still flat and accessible than after they're assembled into a standing tree.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| Pine, 1x6 or cedar fence picket, 6 ft1x6 is a little thicker and gives fasteners more to bite into for the frame; cedar fence pickets work well for the thinner back layers. | 6 each |
| Pine, 2x8 or larger, 16 inBase. | 1 each |
| Brad nails, 1-1/4" and 3/4", collated | 1 box |
| Wood glue | 3 oz |
| Self-tapping screws, 1-1/4"For the final lapped assembly — this is what makes it collapsible. | 1 box |
| Stain | 1 quart |
Overall cost: $$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Top frame piece, longerPine or cedar fence picketLong point to long point, ends not parallel — top end at 50°, bottom end at 20° off square. | 1 | 3/4" × 5 1/2" × 14 7/8" |
| Top frame piece, shorterPine or cedar fence picketSame angle pattern as the longer top piece. | 1 | 3/4" × 5 1/2" × 13 5/8" |
| Side layer piecesPine or cedar fence picketLong point to short point, both ends cut at 20°, ends parallel. | 8 | 3/4" × 5 1/2" × 13 5/8" |
| Shelf, top layerPine or cedar fence picketBoth ends cut at 20° off square, ends not parallel. | 1 | 3/4" × 5 1/2" × 8" |
| Shelf, second layerPine or cedar fence picket | 1 | 3/4" × 5 1/2" × 15 1/8" |
| Shelf, third layerPine or cedar fence picket | 1 | 3/4" × 5 1/2" × 22 1/4" |
| Shelf, fourth layerPine or cedar fence picket | 1 | 3/4" × 5 1/2" × 29 1/2" |
| Shelf, bottom layerPine or cedar fence picket | 1 | 3/4" × 5 1/2" × 36 5/8" |
| Back pieces, in order top to bottomCedar fence picketLengths from top to bottom: 4-7/8", 9-5/8", 19-1/8", 23-7/8", 33-1/2", 38-1/8" — long point to long point, both ends at 20° off square, ends not parallel. | 6 | 3/4" × 5 1/2" × 23 7/8" |
| BasePine, 2x8 or larger | 1 | 1 1/2" × 7 1/4" × 16" |
Buy 6 boards at 8 ft.
1 board
5 boards
Cut the two top frame pieces and match them together. Attach with glue and 1-1/4" brad nails.
Use two rows of cedar fence picket with a small gap between them to cover the back of the top section. Attach with 3/4" brad nails and glue.
Build the next layer with 1-1/4" brad nails and glue. Test that it fits properly under the top layer, but do not attach it to the top yet — each layer needs to stay separable for the tree to collapse.
Lay out and build each subsequent row the same way. Add cedar fence picket backing to the back of the third and fourth rows, attaching with glue and 3/4" brad nails or staples.
Add the final (bottom) row and attach a back panel to it.
Add back pieces to the bottom row, then attach the 2x8 base to the bottom layer with 1-1/4" screws.
Separate all the layers and finish each one individually with stain — it's far easier to get an even coat into every angled corner while the pieces are flat. Once dry, stack the layers and attach where each one laps over the one below with 1-1/4" screws.
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Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →