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Step-by-step build — 7 steps. Also available as a print sheet.
Fasten the bottom (B) to the sides (A) — the top of the bottom panel sits 2-1/2" up from the floor, leaving 1-3/4" of clearance underneath. Add the top (C) to the sides with 2" fasteners.
Check the box for square, then fasten the 3/8" plywood back with 1-1/4" fasteners.
Check for square, then add the bottom trim (E) with 2" fasteners. Check square again, then add the top trim (F), keeping outside edges flush, and finally the side trim (G) the same way.
Mark where the shelf will sit and drill two holes 1" from each end with a 1/4" bit, 1/2" deep — set your drill bit so only 1/2" is exposed to keep every hole consistent. Insert the shelf pins and drop in the shelf (H); it can be repositioned any time. If using plywood with a visible edge, finish it with edge banding.
Dry-fit the door backs (I) into the cabinet opening and confirm about a 1/8" gap all around, trimming if needed, and check your chosen hinges will fit the door thickness. Use 5/8" staples or brad nails plus glue and clamps to attach the rails (J) to the tops and bottoms of the doors, then the stiles (K) the same way, keeping outside edges flush. Weight the assembled doors flat under a piece of plywood and something heavy while the glue dries.
If dressing up the base, add the base moulding with 1-1/4" fasteners. Hang the finished door with your chosen hinges and add pulls or knobs.
Cut the drawer bottom (L) from the scrap left over from the main box. Fasten the sides (M) to the bottom, then notch the front face as needed and fasten the front and back (N) to the sides and bottom. Mount using the undermount drawer slides.