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Every kitchen can use more work space and storage. This island offers both in a great-looking package. The island is easy to build thanks to purchased legs and a clever way to create the extra-thick top from ordinary boards. Because it’s freestanding, you can incorporate it into almost any kitchen.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| Board, 1x6 96" | 2 board |
| Board, 1x6 48" | 1 board |
| Board, 1x4 96" |
| 1 board |
| Board, 1x4 48" | 1 board |
| Board, 1x2 96" | 3 board |
| Board, 1x2 48" | 1 board |
| Plywood, 3/4" Thick Half Sheet | 1 board |
| Narrow Concord Island Post | 4 each |
| 1 1/4" fine-thread pocket hole screws | 129 each |
Overall cost: $$$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Leg | 4 | 3" × 3" × 34" |
| End Rail | 2 | 3/4" × 3" × 18" |
| Side Rail | 2 | 3/4" × 3" × 34" |
| Center Support | 1 | 3/4" × 3" × 22" |
| Shelf | 2 | 3" × 22" × 38" |
| Shelf Long Edge | 4 | 3/4" × 1" × 34" |
| Shelf Short Edge | 4 | 3/4" × 1" × 14" |
| Top Board | 5 | 3/4" × 5" × 47" |
| Top Long Edge | 2 | 3/4" × 1" × 44" |
Buy 12 boards at 8 ft.
1 board
2 boards
3 boards
2 boards
4 boards
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
Because this project uses purchased Legs, your first step should be ordering those. That way, you’ll know that they’re available before you start making the other parts.
Cut two End Rails, two Side Rails, and one Center Support to length from 1x4 boards (we used poplar), as shown in the cutting diagram. Then, with your pocket hole jig set up for 3/4" material, drill pocket holes in the Rails and the Support, as shown.
Now you can attach the End Rails to the Legs using 1 1/4" fine-thread pocket hole screws, as shown. Note that the End Rails are inset 1/4" from the outer face of the Legs. Make sure that the pocket holes are oriented correctly for attaching the island top later.
Attach the Center Support to the Side Rails using 1 1/4" fine-thread pocket hole screws, as shown. Make sure that the pocket holes along the edges are all oriented in the same direction.
Cut two Shelf Long Edges and two Shelf Short Edges to length from 1x2 boards, as shown in the cutting diagram. Then attach the Edges to each Shelf using 1 1/4" fine-thread pocket hole screws, as shown.
Next, attach the Shelf assemblies to the same Legs using 1 1/4" fine-thread pocket hole screws, as shown. Make sure you have the Shelves spaced properly before you drive in the screws.
Now you can attach the second set of Legs using 1 1/4" fine-thread pocket hole screws, as shown. Once again, check the Shelf spacing before you drive in the screws to ensure that the Shelves will sit level.
Next, add the Top Boards using wood glue and 1 1/4" coarse-thread pocket hole screws. Make sure you have glue spread along the board edges all the way to the ends. After the glue sets, cut 1 1/2" off each end of the Top assembly, as shown. A circular saw with an edge guide works great for doing this.
With the pieces cut, you can glue them to the underside of the Top assembly. Use clamps or weight the pieces down while the glue sets. Once it does, scrape off any glue squeeze-out, and then sand the Top assembly smooth.
Once you have the Top assembly done, you’re ready to attach it to the island base. If you plan to paint the base, though, do that before attaching the top. Be sure, also, that you use a food-safe finish on the top. Linseed oil or butcher-block finish works great.
Tip: Get the Right Angle When you attach the top to the island base, space is too tight to get a full-size drill and driver in position. Pick up a right-angle attachment for your drill, which you can get for as little as $20, plus a short #2 square-drive bit, and you’ll be able to attach the screws in tight quarters without a problem.
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