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This island's legs are solid 4x4 posts rather than a built-up 2x4 leg assembly, which means the bottom stretcher joint needs to be notched directly into the solid post rather than pocket-holed to a face. Set a circular saw's blade depth to 1-1/2" and make repeated cuts every 1/4" across the notch area, then clear the waste with a chisel — this is a genuinely different technique from anything else in this catalog's islands, more carpentry than cabinetmaking, and worth practicing on a scrap 4x4 first if you haven't cut a notch this way before.
Once the notch is cut, the bottom stretcher seats into it and gets screwed and glued in place, and the top and side aprons attach with pocket holes — drill the apron pocket holes facing upward on the inside while you're at it, since that's what the tabletop and support boards will screw into later, and it's much easier to add these holes now than after the aprons are already installed.
The under-table supports tie into the side aprons the same way, and the shelf and tabletop are both built from 2x6 boards — genuinely thick, substantial stock that gives this island real visual weight. Building the tabletop as its own flat panel before attaching it to the aprons is the plan's own recommendation, following the same panel-glue-up approach used for the tops of other plank-style tables in this catalog.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| 4x4, 6 ft | 2 each |
| 2x4, 8 ft | 4 each |
| 2x6, 6 ft | 9 each |
| Pocket hole screws, 2-1/2" | 60 each |
| Self-tapping screws, 2-1/2" | 20 each |
| Wood glue | 5 oz |
| Primer and paint, or stain and poly | 1 set |
Overall cost: $$$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Legs4x4, 6 ftNotched for the bottom stretcher with a circular saw and chisel. | 4 | 3 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 34 1/2" |
| Bottom stretchers2x4, 8 ft | 2 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 32" |
| End aprons2x4, 8 ft | 2 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 24" |
| Side aprons2x4, 8 ft | 2 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 61" |
| Under-table supports2x4, 8 ft | 3 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 27" |
| Shelf boards2x6, 6 ft | 3 | 1 1/2" × 5 1/2" × 69" |
| Tabletop boards2x6, 6 ft | 6 | 1 1/2" × 5 1/2" × 70" |
Buy 15 boards at 8 ft.
2 boards
9 boards
4 boards
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
Set a circular saw's blade depth to 1-1/2". Make repeated cuts every 1/4" across the notch area on each 4x4 leg, then clear the waste with a chisel.
Attach the bottom stretcher into the notched area with 2-1/2" screws and wood glue. Drill two 1-1/2" pocket holes on each end of the top end apron board and attach to the legs, checking for square. Drill pocket holes facing upward on the inside of the aprons for attaching the tabletop later. Build two leg sets.
Drill two 1-1/2" pocket holes on each end of the side apron boards. Attach to the legs with 2-1/2" pocket hole screws and glue, checking for square.
Attach the under-table supports to the side aprons with pocket holes, drilling upward-facing holes for the tabletop attachment.
Build the shelf from the 2x6 boards and attach to the bottom stretchers.
Build the tabletop as its own flat panel from the 2x6 boards, then attach to the aprons and supports.
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