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Getting both back legs to match is the entire skill in this build, and the source's own advice is worth taking literally: practice the leg cut on a scrap piece of 2x4 before committing to the real stock. Cut as much as possible with a circular saw, finishing only the interior curves with a jigsaw, then lay the two finished legs together and check that the top, bottom, and front edges all line up — those are the surfaces that show and bear load, so they're the ones worth double-checking; the rest matters far less.
The upholstery is a straightforward staple-and-wrap job, not sewing: spray-glue the foam to the plywood seat top, lay fabric face-down with the foam-side seat on top, then staple the fabric to the underside, tucking corners neatly as you go. A chair like this is a genuinely inexpensive build — the source's own version came in under $20 in materials.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| Pine, 1x6, 3 ft | 1 each |
| Pine, 2x2, 8 ft | 1 each |
| Pine, 1x4, 6 ft | 1 each |
| Pine, 1x2, 8 ft | 1 each |
| Pine, 2x4, 8 ft | 1 each |
| Plywood, 1/2", scrap, 19" x 19" | 1 each |
| Upholstery fabric | 1 yard |
| Foam, 19" x 19" x 1" thick | 1 each |
| Staples, 3/8" | 1 box |
| Pocket hole screws, 1-1/4" | 1 box |
| Wood glue | 2 oz |
| Sandpaper, assorted grit | 2 sheet |
Overall cost: $$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Chair back legsPine 2x4Practice on scrap first; front cut inset 1/4" for rounded 2x4 edges. | 2 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 38 1/4" |
| Side apronsPine 1x4 | 2 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 17 1/2" |
| Front legsPine 2x2 | 2 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 17 1/4" |
| Front and back apronsPine 1x4 | 2 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 16" |
| Base support corner bracesPine 2x2Both ends cut at 45°, not parallel to each other. | 4 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 4" |
| Seat back topPine 1x2 | 1 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 16" |
| Seat backPine 1x6 | 2 | 3/4" × 5 1/2" × 16" |
| Base side supportsPine 1x2Longest point measurement, one end cut at 8° off square. | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 19" |
| Base center supportPine 1x2 | 1 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 16 3/4" |
| Seat top panelPlywood | 1 | 1/2" × 19" × 19" |
Buy 6 boards at 8 ft.
1 board
1 board
1 board
1 board
1 board
1 board
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
Mark and cut the back legs, insetting the front cut (where the leg connects to the side aprons) by 1/4" to account for the rounded edges on 2x4 stock. Make as many cuts as possible with a circular saw, finishing the interior cuts on the back with a jigsaw. Practice the cut on a scrap piece of 2x4 first. Once cut, lay both legs together and check that the top, bottom, and front sides all match — the other edges matter less. Sand the cuts smooth.
Attach the side aprons to the back legs, flush to the bottom of the front cuts, checking that the two leg pieces still line up — a mismatch here means a crooked chair.
Attach the front legs to the side aprons, tops flush, checking the chair parts still line up.
Attach the front and back aprons, predrilling carefully. Pocket hole screws and glue work well here, tops flush.
Attach the seat back top piece.
Attach the seat back boards, using pocket holes from the back or predrilled screws from the legs.
Attach the base side supports — these add considerable strength to the chair.
Attach the base center support to the sides. Add the corner braces for extra strength, with glue.
Spray-glue the foam cushion to the plywood seat top. Lay the fabric face-down on a table with the seat top on top of it, foam side down. Staple the fabric carefully to the underside of the seat, tucking corners neatly. Attach the finished seat to the cross supports with 2" screws or pocket hole screws.
Sand every exposed wood surface and paint or stain as desired.
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