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The signature move on this table is that the four chunky 2x6 legs pass up through cutouts in the 1x12 plank top, so the leg tops sit flush and visible in the surface — a detail that reads as solid, intentional joinery rather than legs bolted under a slab. Cutting those notches to fit the actual 2x6 is the one place precision pays off.
Because a nominal 2x6 is really 1-1/2" x 5-1/2" (and can vary), measure your actual leg stock before you cut the top notches. Cut them tight and the legs look grown-in; cut them loose and you'll be filling gaps. The rest is a pair of glued-up plank shelves, each stiffened by a hidden 1x-frame underneath — 1x3 on the top shelf, 1x2 on the bottom.
The pro tip the source gives is worth following: finish the two shelves and the four legs separately before final assembly. Painting or staining flat parts and into corners is far easier than fighting a finished, boxed-up table. Toe-screw the legs at a slight outward angle for a little extra stability.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| 2x6, 8 ftLegs. Stud length is fine. | 1 each |
| 1x12, 8 ftTop and bottom shelf boards. | 2 each |
| 1x3, 6 ftTop shelf stiffening frame. | 2 each |
| 1x2, 8 ftBottom shelf frame. | 3 each |
| Self-tapping star-bit screws, 2" | 16 each |
| Brad nails, 1-1/4" | 1 box |
| Wood glue | 6 oz |
| Wood filler and finish | 1 kit |
Overall cost: $$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Legs2x6 | 4 | 1 1/2" × 5 1/2" × 17" |
| Tabletop boards1x12Two per shelf; notch the top for the legs. | 4 | 3/4" × 11 1/4" × 47 1/2" |
| Top frame ends1x3Measure and cut to fit. | 2 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 19 1/2" |
| Top frame sides1x3 | 2 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 43" |
| Top frame middles1x2Measure and cut to fit. | 3 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 18" |
| Bottom frame ends1x2Measure and cut to fit. | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 19 1/2" |
| Bottom frame sides1x2 | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 43" |
| Bottom frame middles1x2 | 3 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 18" |
Buy 10 boards at 8 ft.
1 board
4 boards
2 boards
3 boards
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
Measure the ends of your 2x6 legs to confirm they're really 1-1/2" x 5-1/2" and adjust if needed. Lay out and cut the leg notches into the ends of the 1x12 top boards so the legs will pass through flush. Cut tight to the actual leg stock — a loose notch means gaps to fill.
Measure between the notches and cut two 1x3s to fit, then build a frame with the 1x3s at 43". Nail the outer frame corners together with glue and 1-1/4" brad nails, then measure the inside and cut the middle pieces to fit.
Apply glue between the 1x12s and lay them out flat and level. Apply glue to the back of the 1x3 frame and nail it to the underside of the top boards with 1-1/4" nails. The frame stiffens the glued-up top so it stays flat.
Repeat for the bottom shelf, but use 1x2s for the frame instead of 1x3s. Tip: sand, stain, or paint both shelves and the four legs now, before assembly — finishing flat parts is far easier than finishing an assembled table.
With the top shelf face-down on a level surface, set the legs into the notches and attach with 2" star-bit screws, two per leg, driven at a slight outward angle for stability. Then mark the legs 2-1/2" down and set the bottom shelf in place (turning the assembly on its side helps), two 2" screws per leg at a slight outward angle. Fill, sand, and finish.
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