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This cabinet is built narrow and deep on purpose, for the same reason this catalog's other slim cabinets are — small-space storage that doesn't give up interior volume for a smaller footprint. The carcass sides get their bottom profile cut with a jigsaw before assembly, and the two side panels must be built as true mirror images, front leg smaller than back, which matters even more if your plywood has a finished face you want kept on the exterior.
The door is where this piece earns its name: door stiles and rails form a simple frame, but the mitered chevron pieces inside it — cut at 45° with both parallel and non-parallel long-point measurements depending on position — create the herringbone-style inlay detail once assembled and set behind the door's plywood panel. Build the face frame as its own flat assembly before attaching it to the cabinet front, the same discipline every face-framed piece in this catalog uses.
Install the door on small hinges last, after the carcass, face frame, and shelves are all in place, and add a magnetic clasp or similar catch to keep it shut — a single door on a narrow cabinet has more leverage to swing open on its own than a wider door would.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| 3/4" plywood, ripped into 15-3/4" strips (or 1x12 boards for a narrower depth) | 1 each |
| 1x3, 8 ft | 3 each |
| 1/4" plywood, 48" x 48" | 1 each |
| Small hinges | 2 each |
| Knob | 1 each |
| Magnetic clasp | 1 each |
| Pocket hole screws, 1-1/4" | 60 each |
| Brad nails, 3/4" and 1-1/4" | 60 each |
| Wood glue | 3 oz |
Overall cost: $$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Sides3/4" plywood, ripped into 15-3/4" strips (or 1x12 boards for a narrower depth)Bottom profile cut with a jigsaw; built as true mirror pairs. | 2 | 3/4" × 15 3/4" × 35 1/4" |
| Top3/4" plywood, ripped into 15-3/4" strips (or 1x12 boards for a narrower depth) | 1 | 3/4" × 15 3/4" × 23 3/4" |
| Bottom shelf3/4" plywood, ripped into 15-3/4" strips (or 1x12 boards for a narrower depth) | 1 | 3/4" × 15 3/4" × 22 1/4" |
| Middle shelf3/4" plywood, ripped into 15-3/4" strips (or 1x12 boards for a narrower depth) | 1 | 3/4" × 15 1/4" × 22 1/4" |
| Back1/4" plywood, 48" x 48" | 1 | 1/4" × 23 3/4" × 32 3/4" |
| Face frame top1x3, 8 ft | 1 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 23 3/4" |
| Face frame sides1x3, 8 ft | 2 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 33 1/2" |
| Face frame bottom1x3, 8 ft | 1 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 18 3/4" |
| Door stiles1x3, 8 ft | 2 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 27 1/2" |
| Door rails1x3, 8 ft | 3 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 13 1/2" |
| Chevron pieces, parallel1x3, 8 ftBoth ends cut at 45°, ends parallel, long point to short point measurement. | 2 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 14 1/8" |
| Chevron pieces, non-parallel1x3, 8 ftBoth ends cut at 45°, ends not parallel, long point measurement. | 4 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 9 1/2" |
| Door panel1/4" plywood, 48" x 48" | 1 | 1/4" × 27 1/2" × 18 1/2" |
Buy 8 boards at 8 ft.
2 boards
1 board
3 boards
Cut out the bottom profile of the side panels with a jigsaw. Build the two side panels as true mirror images, front leg smaller than the back. Drill three pocket holes along the top edge on the inside, jig set for 3/4" material.
Attach the sides to the top with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws, then attach the bottom to the sides with pocket holes.
Cut the back panel on a table saw or with a circular saw and attach with glue and 3/4" brad nails.
Build the face frame separately with 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws, then attach to the front of the cabinet with 1-1/4" brad nails and glue.
Build the door frame from the stiles and rails, then add the mitered chevron pieces as an inlay behind the frame. Attach the plywood door panel behind the chevron detail with glue and 3/4" brad nails.
Install the door with the small hinges and add a magnetic clasp to keep it shut. Add shelves, sand, and finish.
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1 board
1 board
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →