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Most nightstand plans are cubes; this one is deliberately narrow (17" wide) and deep, which suits a small bedroom footprint without giving up drawer volume — the depth carries the storage that the width gives up.
The carcass is plywood, faced with a solid-wood face frame, which is what lets the drawer front sit flush with a consistent reveal instead of showing raw plywood edges around the opening. The tabletop's edges are dressed in cove moulding, a cheap way to turn a flat-sawn board edge into a profiled one without a router table.
A matching dresser design exists from the same source if you want the pieces to read as a set — not included here, since this catalog covers one plan per entry.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| 3/4" plywood, partial sheetCarcass sides and bottom shelf. | 1 sheet |
| 1/4" plywood, partial sheetBack panel and drawer bottom. | 1 sheet |
| Pine board, 1x2, 8 ftFace frame and drawer-slide cleats. | 2 each |
| Pine board, 1x3, 8 ftBack support and base trim. | 2 each |
| Pine board, 1x4, 5 ftDrawer box. | 1 each |
| Pine board, 1x8, 6 ftTabletop and drawer face. | 2 each |
| Cove moulding, 3/4" x 3/4", 6 ft | 2 each |
| Pocket hole screws, 1-1/4" | 40 each |
| Brad nails, assorted | 1 box |
| Drawer slides, 18", bottom-mount | 1 pair |
| Drawer knob or pull | 1 each |
| Wood filler | 1 each |
| Sandpaper, 120 grit | 1 each |
| Wood paint or stain | 8 oz |
Overall cost: $$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Carcass sides3/4" plywood | 2 | 3/4" × 20" × 23 1/4" |
| Bottom shelf3/4" plywood | 1 | 3/4" × 20" × 15 1/2" |
| Back support1x3 | 1 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 15 1/2" |
| Back panel1/4" plywood | 1 | 1/4" × 17" × 23 1/4" |
| Face frame stiles1x2 | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 23 1/4" |
| Face frame rails1x2Cut to fit the assembled carcass. | 3 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 14" |
| Base trim sides1x3 | 2 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 22" |
| Base trim front1x3Cut to fit. | 1 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 18 1/2" |
| Drawer slide cleats1x2 | 4 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 9" |
| Tabletop boards1x8 | 3 | 3/4" × 7 1/4" × 18 1/2" |
| Drawer box sides1x4 | 2 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 18" |
| Drawer box front/back1x42-1/2in less than the drawer opening. | 2 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 11 1/2" |
| Drawer bottom1/4" plywood | 1 | 1/4" × 18" × 13" |
| Drawer face1x8 | 1 | 3/4" × 7 1/4" × 13 3/4" |
Buy 8 boards at 8 ft.
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1 board
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Cut the plywood carcass sides, bottom shelf, and back panel, along with the face frame, base trim, and tabletop boards, per the cut list.
Join the bottom shelf between the two side panels with pocket screws and glue to form the carcass.
Add the 1x3 back support with pocket holes, then nail on the plywood back panel — this squares the carcass and locks it in place.
Build the 1x2 face frame to match the carcass width and attach it to the front. Add the base trim around the bottom and the drawer-slide cleats inside the carcass.
Build the drawer box from 1x4 stock with a plywood bottom, mount it on the slides so it sits inset behind the face frame, then attach the 1x8 drawer face with a consistent reveal gap all around.
Glue and screw the tabletop boards together with a consistent overhang on the front and sides, then dress the exposed edges with cove moulding. Fill nail holes, sand with the grain, then paint or stain.
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Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →