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Every piece in the field of the board is cut at the same 30°-off-square angle, with both ends parallel — the long-point-to-short-point measurement is what actually becomes the board's finished depth, so that's the number to set, not the overall board length. A stop block on the miter saw is worth setting up even for a handful of cuts, since any piece that comes out a hair short leaves a visible gap once everything is glued and framed.
This is one of the best scrap-bin projects in the catalog: odds and ends of 1x and 2x stock, cut to the same depth and glued up with varying widths, create the layered channels and sections that give a grazing board its texture — no single board wide enough for the whole thing is required or even desirable.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| Scrap 1x and 2x lumberOdds and ends left over from other projects; free if already on hand. | 6 ft |
| Pine, 1x2, scrapsFrames the outside edge of the board. | 4 ft |
| Brad nails, 1-1/4" | 1 box |
| Wood glue | 2 oz |
| Wood stain | 1 can |
| Food-safe polyurethaneProtects the board and makes it safe to wipe clean after serving food. | 1 can |
Overall cost: $. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Field piecesScrap 1x/2x lumberBoth ends cut parallel at 30° off square; long point to short point equals the board's finished depth (16" shown as an example). | 12 | 3/4" × 3" × 16" |
| Divider stripsPine 1x2Stood upright against the saw fence to match the field pieces' angle. | 4 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 16" |
| End frame piecesPine 1x2Cut a little long, then trimmed flush after assembly. | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 20" |
Buy 5 boards at 8 ft.
3 boards
2 boards
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
Set your miter saw to a 30° off-square angle. Cut scrap wood pieces with both ends parallel at this angle — the long-point-to-short-point measurement equals your board's finished depth. For example, for a 16"-deep board, cut the pieces 16" long, long point to short point, both ends parallel at 30° off square.
It's important that every piece is the same length — use a stop block on the saw so all the pieces come out identical.
As you cut, lay the field pieces out to create varied depths and channels across the board. Cut the divider strips standing upright against the saw fence, so they pick up the same angle as the field pieces.
Cut an end frame piece a little longer than needed. Attach it to the ends of the field pieces with 1-1/4" brad nails and glue, applying glue between the field pieces as well. Keep all edges flush to the bottom.
Repeat the previous step on the opposite side.
Mark the ends to be trimmed with a square, checking there are no nails in the cut path. Trim the ends flush with a circular saw, or a miter saw if the board is small enough to fit.
Cut short 1x2 end caps and nail and glue them to the freshly trimmed ends.
Finish as desired. If the board will be used for serving food, apply a good coat of food-safe polyurethane so it can be wiped clean after use and the finish protects the food from the stain underneath.
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