Cedar-Sided Raised Planter Box

Screw two 17" picket boards across a pair of legs — two 1-1/4" screws per joint, everything flush to the outside edges. Build the second end on top of the first so they match.

Flush matters here more than usual: the pickets are the structure, and a flush skin is what makes the box rigid.

Stand the two end assemblies up and screw the four 35-1/2" side boards to the legs, outside edges flush, two screws per joint. The floppy pieces become a rigid box on the last board.

Measure the actual inside of your box — not the cut list; picket thickness moved it — and cut the 1x2 cleats to fit. Screw them to the legs and lower board, two screws per joint, level with each other. These four sticks carry all the soil weight, so screws into the LEGS, not just the thin cladding.

Lay the four bottom slats across the cleats with even gaps and tack each with a single screw per end. The gaps are the drainage — do not close them up.

Line with landscape fabric, carry the planter to its permanent home, THEN fill. Wet soil at this volume is a two-person regret if you fill it in the garage. Plant herbs, lettuce, or the tomatoes that will absolutely outgrow it.