Cedar Planter

Cut six Side Slats to length from 1x6 boards, as shown in the cutting diagram. Then, with your pocket-hole jig set up for 3/4" material, drill pocket holes in the Side Slats as shown.

Tip: Set Up Stop Blocks Building the planter box requires you to cut multiple pieces that need to match in length. To make this easier, set up a stop block on your miter saw.

Create two side panels by joining Side Slats together as shown using 1 1/4" exterior-rated pocket-hole screws.

• Cut four Legs to length from a 4x4 board, as shown in the cutting diagram.
• Next, cut the angle on the end of each leg. With that done, you can drill pocket holes, as shown, in the two inside faces of each leg. Note that the pocket holes at the upper end are drilled with your pocket-hole jig set up for 1 1/2" material. The holes along the edges are drilled with your jig set for 3/4" material.

Tip: Portable Pocket Holes The 4x4s used for the Legs are too thick to fit into a standard benchtop-style pocket-hole jig. To drill these holes, you’ll need to use a portable pocket-hole jig or one that allows you to remove the guide block for portable use.

• Cut four Bottom Rails to length from a 2x4 board, as shown in the cutting diagram.
• Then drill pocket holes, as shown. Like with the Legs, the pocket holes in the Bottom Rails require two jig setups: the end holes are drilled with the jig set for 1 1/2" material. The holes along the edge are drilled with the jig set for 3/4" material.

• Now you can join the Legs to the Bottom Rails using 2 1/2" exterior-rated pocket-hole screws.
• Then attach the side-panel assembly using 1 1/4" exterior-rated pocket hole screws. Note that the side panels get screwed to the Legs and to the Bottom Rails. Create two of these side assemblies.

Join these two assemblies together by attaching the other two Bottom Rails using glue and 2 1/2" exterior-rated pocket-hole screws. Bar clamps can hold the parts in position as you drive in the screws.

Cut six End Slats to length from 1x6 boards, as shown in the cutting diagram. Then, with your pocket-hole jig set up for 3/4" material, drill pocket holes in the End Slats as shown.

Create two end panels by joining Side Slats together as shown using 1 1/4" exterior-rated pocket-hole screws.

Attach them to the leg assemblies using glue and 1 1/4" exterior-rated pocket-hole screws. Make sure that the assemblies are square, and that the ends of the slats align with the faces of the side slats, which were attached earlier. Note that the slats get screwed to the Legs and to the Bottom Rails.

• Cut two pieces of Long Top Trim and two pieces of Short Top Trim to length from 2x6 boards, as shown in the cutting diagram.
• Then lay out and cut the arcs in each piece using a jig saw. After that, drill pocket holes with the jig set up for 1 1/2" material.

Tip: Create Consistent Arcs To ensure that all of the arcs are identical, start by cutting one and sanding it smooth. Then, use this arc to lay out the others.

Join the Long and Short Top Trim pieces together using 2 1/2" exterior-rated pocket-hole screws.

Attach the Top Trim to the assembled base using 1 1/4" exterior-rated pocket-hole screws. Make sure that the trim overhangs equally on all sides before driving in the screws.

Cut eight pieces of Edge Trim to length from 1x2 boards, as shown in the cutting diagram. Then, attach the Edge Trim to the corners of the planter using 1 1/4" Exterior Brad Nails.

Cut three Bottom Slats to length from a 2x6 board, as shown in the cutting diagram. With your pocket-hole jig set up for 1 1/2"-thick material, drill pocket holes in the Bottom Slats, as shown.

• Attach the Bottom Slats to the Bottom Rails using 2 1/2" exterior-rated pocket-hole screws.
• Leave consistent gaps to allow water to drain out of the planter. With the Bottom Slats in, you can do any necessary sanding, and then protect your planter with a couple of coats of exterior stain or finish.