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Step-by-step build — 4 steps. Also available as a print sheet.
Mark a line 2" down from the inside top-back corner — this locates the shelf later. Attach the two side pieces to the back piece with glue and 1" finish nails, keeping the back edges and top edges flush. Measure the actual back-to-back width at this point and trim your top and bottom pieces to match (should land close to 5-1/2") before attaching the bottom flush to the outside edges.
Attach the top flush to the outside edges the same way you attached the bottom. Measure the box front-to-back at the bottom (should be about 5") and trim the shelf to that length — write this number down, it's also your drawer length. Attach the shelf inside the box with its top edge flush to the line you marked in step 1.
For each drawer, figure the side length as your drawer length minus the thickness of the front and back, and trim both side pieces to that length (about 4"). Attach the front and back to one side, keeping outside and bottom edges flush, then attach the second side the same way. Set the assembled drawer box on top of a bottom blank, trace the opening, and cut the bottom to that traced line — dry-fit and check for square before gluing and nailing it on flush.
Sand every piece before final assembly if you haven't already, fill any visible nail holes, and sand again once assembled. Apply your chosen finish. For wood pulls, glue the small scrap blocks to the drawer fronts. For store-bought hardware, remember the fronts are only 1/2" thick — you'll likely need shorter screws or a washer/spacer behind the front to get a tight fit.