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A proper little cabinet nightstand: a face-framed box with recessed plywood side panels, a single hinged door, and a wrap of 5-1/4" base moulding around the bottom that lifts it from 'plywood box' to 'furniture.' It's a rewarding intermediate build — you get face-frame joinery, a fitted door, and moulding mitres without committing to a full dresser.
Build the box from the frames out. Make the two side frames and the front/back frames, and before you assemble the box, drill upward-facing 3/4" pocket holes on the inside top edges so you can attach the top from below later. The plywood side panels tuck inside the frames and get pinned with short (3/4") finish nails so the points don't blow through the 1/4" panel.
The door isn't in the shopping list on purpose — door styles vary — but the rule is fixed: measure your actual finished opening, then build the door 1/4" smaller so you land a 1/8" gap on every side. Hang it on inset wrap hinges or surface-mount hinges. Miter the base moulding at the corners, and add cove moulding under the top and around the panels if you want to dress it up further.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| 1x2, 10 ftSide frames. | 1 each |
| 1x3, 10 ftSide and front/back frames. | 2 each |
| Plywood, 3/4", quarter sheet (24x48)Bottom and top. | 1 each |
| Plywood, 1/4", half sheet (48x48)Side panels and back. | 1 each |
| Base moulding, 5-1/4" | 6 foot |
| Cabinet hinges (inset wrap or surface mount) | 2 each |
| Pocket-hole screws, 1-1/4" | 40 each |
| Finish nails, 3/4" and 1-1/4" | 80 each |
| Wood glue | 6 oz |
| Cove mouldingOptional dress-up under the top and around panels. | 8 foot |
Overall cost: $$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Side frame stiles1x2 | 4 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 27 1/4" |
| Side frame rails1x3 | 4 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 12 3/4" |
| Front/back stiles1x3 | 4 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 27 1/4" |
| Front/back rails1x3 | 4 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 17" |
| Bottom3/4" plywood | 1 | 3/4" × 15 3/4" × 20 1/2" |
| Side panels1/4" plywood | 2 | 1/4" × 15 3/4" × 22 3/4" |
| Top3/4" plywoodEdge-band the exposed edges if desired. | 1 | 3/4" × 18 1/2" × 24" |
| Back1/4" plywood | 1 | 1/4" × 22" × 25 1/4" |
| DoorBuilder's choiceBuild 1/4" less than your measured opening for a 1/8" gap all around. | 1 | 3/4" × 16" × 19" |
Buy 10 boards at 8 ft.
1 board
1 board
1 board
3 boards
2 boards
1 board
1 board
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
Build the two side frames from 1x2 stiles and 1x3 rails, pocket-holed together. These become the recessed-panel sides of the cabinet.
Build the front and back frames from 1x3. Before assembling the box, drill 3/4" pocket holes facing upward on the inside top of all the sides for attaching the top later. Then join the side frames to the front and back into the cabinet box.
Add the 3/4" plywood bottom to the frames, using 3/4" pocket holes around all sides of the bottom shelf to lock it in.
Attach the 1/4" plywood side panels to the inside of the side frames with finish nails and glue. Use short (3/4") nails so the points don't punch through the thin panel.
Attach the top panel with even overhangs on the sides and front — leave room at the back for the back panel coming next. Fasten with 1-1/4" pocket screws and glue through the upward-facing pocket holes.
Attach the 1/4" back with glue and finish nails. It squares the cabinet.
Cut and attach the base moulding around the bottom with glue and finish nails, mitering the corners. Add cove moulding under the top and around the panels now if you want the dressed-up version.
Measure and confirm your actual opening, then build the door 1/4" less than the opening so it hangs with a 1/8" gap all around. Install with inset wrap hinges or surface-mount hinges. Sand and finish the whole cabinet.
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