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Step-by-step build — 14 steps. Also available as a print sheet.
Drill pocket holes in the parts on the attached diagram in the approximate locations shown.
Drill pocket holes in the parts on the attached diagram in the approximate locations shown.
Assemble the main box as per the diagram, paying attention to which way the pocket holes are to face. Use wood glue and 8 x 1 1/4" pocket hole screws on each board to secure all of the TOP/BOTT/SHELVES boards to the SIDES as shown.
Attach the face frame to the box with wood glue and 1 1/4" brad nails. The face frame will exceed the top of the box by 3/4" to allow for a top shelf (if desired) at the top of the closet.
Attach DRAWER BOTTOMS (SM) & (LG) respectively using wood glue and 1 1/4" brad nails.
Install ball-bearing drawer slides on each DRAWER SLIDE MOUNT and the corresponding drawer using a Kreg Drawer Slide Jig. Note, the 14" ball bearing slide will be on the top drawer.
A trick I use to get accurate spacing around my drawers is to put double-sided tape on the drawer box and place it into position. Then open it and use 2 1 1/2" pocket hole screws to screw through the inside of the drawer and into the drawer front.
(NOTE: This lumber is not included in Parts/Cut List or Wood Product List as it is optional) To add a shelf on the top and middle, simply use 1x2 boards to create a ledge around the back and side of your closet. Start from the side of the unit to the side wall of the closet. Follow it around with a second piece that measures 15" and cut a 45° angle on the end.
(NOTE: This lumber is not included in Parts/Cut List or Wood Product List as it is optional) Using 16" wide shelf board. Cut to size and insert on top of the wall supports. Secure into the wall supports with 1 1/4" brad nails in several locations.
(NOTE: This lumber is not included in Parts/Cut List or Wood Product List as it is optional) Attach trim to the edge of shelving using 1x2" boards using wood glue and 1 1/4" brad nails.