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The headboard face is eighteen 1x4 boards edge to edge, alternating bark-side up and down as you assemble them — a real trick for keeping a wide glued-up-looking panel flatter over time, since wood from opposite growth-ring orientations cups in opposite directions and tends to cancel out rather than compound. Nail or screw the top and bottom trim on from the back if you don't have a nailer, which keeps every fastener on the show face hidden.
The back cross supports are the one part worth double-checking against the actual build rather than a summary number: cut them long (36-3/4"), miter both ends at 45° parallel to each other, then trim a small notch 2" in from the top end square to the top edge — that notch is what lets the support tuck under the top trim rather than butting into it.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| 1x4 board, 8 ft | 8 each |
| 1x2 board, 8 ft | 2 each |
| 1x3 board, 8 ft | 3 each |
| Finish nails, 1-1/4" and 2" | 100 each |
| Wood screws, 2" | 20 each |
| Wood glue | 4 oz |
Overall cost: $$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Panel boards1x4 | 18 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 31" |
| Side legs1x2 | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 49 1/2" |
| Front legs1x3 | 2 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 49 1/2" |
| Back supports1x3 | 2 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 38 1/2" |
| Front trim1x4 | 2 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 38 1/2" |
| Center trim1x4 | 1 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 26" |
| Top trim1x3 | 1 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 44" |
| Header1x4 | 1 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 45" |
| Cross supports1x4Both ends cut at 45° off square, parallel. Then measure in 2" from the top end and cut a line square to the top edge, per the last step. | 2 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 36 3/4" |
Buy 14 boards at 8 ft.
9 boards
3 boards
2 boards
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
Line up all eighteen panel boards, alternating the grain (bark side up, then down, board to board) to help the panel stay flat over time. Adjust for square, then glue and nail the top and bottom trim in place. If you don't have a nailer, screw from the back so no screw holes show on the front.
Screw the side and front legs on with glue and 2" screws.
A nailer is handy here; otherwise screw the leg front pieces to the legs with glue and 2" screws or nails.
Measure and cut the front trim to fit rather than trusting a fixed number. Nails hide best — if staining and you don't have a nailer, use a hammer and finish nails to keep holes minimal; if painting, screws and glue are fine.
Add the top trim with screws or nails and glue, centered on the top. Then attach the header to the top trim with finish nails and glue, also centered.
Cut two 1x4s to 36-3/4" long with both ends mitered at 45° off square, parallel to each other. On the top end of each, measure in 2" and mark a line square to the top edge; cut this line to form the notch that tucks under the top trim. Attach the cross supports to the back of the headboard with 1-1/4" finish nails and glue, nailing into every panel board they cross.
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