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This is a fitted-kitchen cabinet, not a standalone piece — it's built to the exact same side-panel dimensions as every other base cabinet in a matching run, so the whole kitchen reads as one continuous counter line instead of a row of mismatched boxes. That means the very first thing to get right is consistency: cut the side panels to match your other base cabinets exactly, and build every pair of sides as true mirror images — toekick on the bottom, face-frame pocket holes on the outside faces, shelf-pin holes on the inside.
The blind corner configuration means part of this cabinet's interior is hidden behind the neighboring cabinet, which is why cheaper plywood is fine for the bottom supports (nobody ever sees them) while the visible carcass gets the better material. The face frame overhangs the sides by 1/4" and the bottom shelf by 1/2", which isn't a mistake in the cut list — it's what creates a consistent 1/4" reveal down the inside of the whole cabinet run. Doors and drawer fronts in this plan were ordered pre-made to size; building your own from the stated dimensions works just as well if you'd rather not order out.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| Plywood, 3/4", 4x8 sheetSides, bottom shelf, and top supports. | 1 each |
| Plywood, 3/4", cheaper grade, 4x8 sheetBottom supports — hidden underneath the cabinet, no need for finished-face material. | 1 each |
| Plywood, 1/4", 4x8 sheetBack panel. | 1 each |
| Pine, 1x2, 8 ftFace frame stiles and rails. | 2 each |
| Pine, 1x6, 6 ftCenter stile. | 1 each |
| Pocket hole screws, 1-1/4" | 1 box |
| Finish nails, 3/4" | 1 box |
| Edge bandingFinishes the plywood shelf fronts. | 1 roll |
| Concealed overlay hinges, 1-1/4" | 1 pair |
| Door and drawer faceOrdered pre-made to size in the source build, or build your own from the stated dimensions. | 1 set |
Overall cost: $$$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Side panelsPlywoodSame dimension on ALL base cabinets in the run — cut these first and match your other cabinets exactly. | 2 | 3/4" × 22 1/4" × 34 1/2" |
| Bottom shelfPlywood | 1 | 3/4" × 22 1/4" × 40" |
| Bottom supportsPlywood, cheaper grade | 2 | 3/4" × 5" × 40" |
| Top supportsPlywoodRip width can vary — length is what matters. | 2 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 40" |
| BackPlywood | 1 | 1/4" × 32" × 41 1/2" |
| Face frame side stilesPineSame on ALL base cabinets in the run. | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 27" |
| Face frame center stilePine | 1 | 3/4" × 5 1/2" × 27" |
| Face frame top/bottom railsPineAlways the overall width of the cabinet. | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 42" |
| Face frame drawer/door railPine | 1 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 18" |
| ShelfPlywoodMeasure and adjust to fit your shelf pins. | 1 | 3/4" × 22" × 39 3/4" |
Buy 9 boards at 8 ft.
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1 board
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Cut the side panels to exactly match the side panels on every other base cabinet in the run — consistency here is what keeps the whole kitchen counter line flush. Build the two sides as true mirror images: toekick cutout on the bottom of each, face-frame pocket holes on the outside faces, and shelf-pin holes on the inside faces for adjustable shelving.
Rip the bottom-support strips at 5" wide from cheaper plywood — these sit hidden underneath the cabinet, so there's no reason to use finished-face material here. Drill all pocket holes at the 3/4" setting and use fine-thread pocket screws. Note the toekick cut is 1/2" shorter than the front support.
On top of the bottom supports, attach the bottom shelf.
Support the top front and back with strips of plywood left over from ripping the sides — their width doesn't matter much, but their length needs to be exact. If you're planning to mount drawers, consider extra support at the back now.
The face frame overextends the sides by 1/4" and the bottom shelf by 1/2", while staying flush to the top and to the toekick cutout at the bottom — this creates a consistent 1/4" reveal inside the cabinet. Build the face frame separately with 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket screws, then attach it to the front with 1-1/4" pocket screws through the holes predrilled on the outsides of the sides and top. At the bottom, there's no room to get a drill between the face frame and the bottom support, so nail that joint on with glue instead.
Attach the back panel, and cut the optional interior shelf to fit your shelf pins, edge-banding the front for a finished look.
Install the door and drawer face using concealed overlay hinges sized for a 1-1/4" overlay.
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Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →