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Ripping the whole plywood sheet into 15-3/4"-wide strips up front is what makes the rest of this build fast — sides, shelves, and top all come off the same rip, so there's no repeated setup and every shelf lands the same depth without extra measuring. Marking and drilling every pocket hole before any assembly begins matters more here than in a simple box: once the sides, legs, and trim are joined, several of those holes become impossible to reach.
The door gets a layer of 1/4" acrylic glass screwed to the back of its frame — not decorative, structural. A frame this size built from 1x3 alone would rack and flex on its hinges; the acrylic panel stiffens it the way a true door panel would, at a fraction of the cost and weight. Leaving an 1/8" gap on every side of the door is what keeps it swinging free once that added stiffness is in place.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| Plywood, 3/4", 4x8 sheetRipped into 15-3/4"-wide strips for the sides, shelves, and top. | 1 each |
| Plywood, 1/4", for back | 1 each |
| Pine, 2x2, 8 ft | 5 each |
| Pine, 1x2, 8 ft | 1 each |
| Pine, 1x3, 8 ft | 1 each |
| Knob | 1 each |
| Euro-style concealed hinges, set | 1 set |
| Acrylic glass, 1/4", 15" x 22" or largerStiffens the door frame. | 1 sheet |
| Pocket hole screws, 1-1/4" and 2-1/2" | 1 box |
| Wood glue | 4 oz |
| Finish nails, 1-1/4" | 1 box |
Overall cost: $$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| SidesPlywood, 3/4" | 2 | 3/4" × 15 3/4" × 56 1/4" |
| Side trimPine 1x2 | 4 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 15 3/4" |
| LegsPine 2x2 | 4 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 59 1/4" |
| Front/back trimPine 2x2 | 6 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 17" |
| ShelvesPlywood, 3/4" | 5 | 3/4" × 15 3/4" × 17" |
| TopPlywood, 3/4" | 1 | 3/4" × 15 3/4" × 22" |
| Top trim, widePine 1x3 | 1 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 22" |
| Top trim, narrowPine 1x2 | 1 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 22" |
| BackPlywood, 1/4" | 1 | 1/4" × 20" × 55 1/4" |
| Door stilesPine 1x3 | 2 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 11 3/4" |
| Door railsPine 1x3 | 2 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 23 3/4" |
Buy 10 boards at 8 ft.
4 boards
3 boards
1 board
1 board
1 board
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
Rip the plywood sheet into 15-3/4"-wide strips for the sides, shelves, and top. Before any assembly, go through the whole plan and mark and drill every pocket hole — several become unreachable once the carcass is joined. On each side, on the outside edges with no pocket holes, attach the side trim to the top and bottom with 1-1/4" finish nails and glue, flush to the outside edges. You need two identical sides.
With top edges flush, attach the legs to both sides using 1-1/4" pocket hole screws and glue.
Measure and mark the placement of the front and back trim boards, then attach with 2-1/2" pocket hole screws and glue.
Drill 3/4" pocket holes on all sides of the fixed shelves. Attach with the side trim, flush at the tops, using 1-1/4" pocket hole screws and glue.
Build the top with 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws, then screw it on from the underside with 2" screws and glue.
Cut the plywood back to fit and attach with glue and 1-1/4" finish nails, making sure to catch every fixed shelf. Cut any cord-pass holes now, before the back is closed in.
Drill 3/4" pocket holes on each end of the shorter door pieces and build the door frame with glue and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.
Predrill holes in the acrylic glass and attach it to the back side of the door frame — this significantly stiffens the door. Mark the hinge locations first and notch the acrylic (or cut it slightly short on the hinge side) so the hinges have a clean, flat mounting spot.
Mount the Euro-style concealed hinges, which need generous clearance — test-fit before committing. Leave a 1/8" gap on every side of the door so it swings freely, add the knob, sand every surface, and finish.
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