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The wasted space behind a closet door is real storage if you're willing to build shallow. This is a simple ladder of 1x6 shelves with 1x2 lips, sized narrower than the door so it clears the door jamb as it swings, and riding on a pair of casters at the bottom so its weight rolls instead of hanging entirely on the door.
The whole build is custom to your door, so there's no universal cut list — the numbers below are worked for a standard 24"-wide door and you scale from there. The key math is in Step 1: subtract 5-1/2" from your door width to get the shelf-unit width, which gives clearance to swing, and cut every shelf to that width minus the two 1x6 sides. Measure your specific door; closet doors are not all 24".
Because most closet doors are hollow-core, use proper hollow-door anchors where you bolt the unit to the door — a plain wood screw into a hollow door face will pull straight out under a loaded shelf. The 1x2 lips aren't decorative; they keep cans and jars from walking off the shelf every time the door moves.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| 1x6 board, 8 ftSides and shelves. Quantity scales with door height and shelf count. | 4 each |
| 1x2 board, 8 ftShelf lips — one more piece than the number of shelves. | 1 each |
| Caster wheels, 1-1/4"Two per door, at the bottom, to carry the load as the door swings. | 2 each |
| Hollow-core door anchor boltsToggle or molly anchors rated for the loaded weight — a plain screw pulls out of a hollow door. | 6 each |
| Wood screws, 2" | 40 each |
| Wood glue | 4 oz |
Overall cost: $$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Unit sides1x6Cut 2" shorter than the door height. 78" shown for an 80" door. | 2 | 3/4" × 5 1/2" × 78" |
| Shelves1x6Door width minus 5-1/2" gives the unit width; minus the two 3/4" sides gives 17" for a 24" door. | 5 | 3/4" × 5 1/2" × 17" |
| Shelf lips1x2One per shelf plus one at the top; keeps items from rolling off. | 6 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 17" |
Buy 5 boards at 8 ft.
3 boards
2 boards
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
Measure your closet door's width and subtract 5-1/2" to get the shelf unit's overall width — that clearance lets it swing without hitting the jamb. For a standard 24" door that's an 18-1/2" unit, so shelves get cut to 17" (the unit width minus the two 3/4" sides). Measure the door height and subtract 2"; cut the two 1x6 sides to that. Cut as many shelves as you want, plus one 1x2 lip per shelf and one extra for the top.
Build a simple shelf unit out of the 1x6s — sides and shelves — keeping it 5-1/2" narrower than the door so it clears when the door opens and closes. Pocket screws give the cleanest joint; 2" countersunk screws and glue also work. Check it stays square as you add shelves.
Attach a 1x2 across the front of each shelf as a retaining lip, and one at the very top. Glue and screw or nail them on. These keep everything on the shelves from sliding off each time the door swings.
Fasten two casters to the bottom so the unit rolls along the floor and doesn't dangle its full weight from the door. Then bolt the unit to the door with hollow-core anchors, checking it's plumb with a level so the shelves sit flat. Load it and confirm the casters take the weight and the door still swings freely.
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