Barn Door Cabinet or Pantry

Drill 3/4" pocket holes on the ends of the top and bottom boards and attach to the sides with glue and 1-1/4" pocket screws, hiding the pockets on the outsides. Hold the bottom up 3-1/2" for the toe space. Attach the 1x4 base support under the bottom shelf with pocket holes, then secure with nails and glue.

Drill 3/4" pocket holes on each end of every shelf and attach to the sides and center divider with pocket screws and glue. Cut a 12" spacer block to set consistent shelf heights.

Before the face frame and back go on, check the cabinet for square by measuring the diagonals — a tall cabinet locks in whatever shape it has once those are attached.

Build the face frame separately with 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket screws, then attach to the front with glue and 1-1/4" brad nails. It's often easier to paint the face frame and the carcass separately, then join the pre-painted parts.

Mark the shelf locations on the back side edges, apply glue, and set the back panels on. Nail the back to every shelf, side, and divider with 3/4" brad nails — nailing it to the shelves is what keeps a tall cabinet from racking.

Install the barn door track hardware first and measure how big the door actually needs to be — the hardware and how it mounts determine the door's height and clearance.

Build the door from 1x6 tongue-and-groove boards, ripping the T&G edges off the first and last boards on the table saw, with 1x8 across the top and bottom. Hang it, adjust the rollers so it glides without dragging, and finish. Add the 1x6 header and 1x2 crown above the opening.