Banker's Bookcase

Cut the 3/4" MDF pieces from the sheet following an efficient layout, and cut the 33" x 60" back from 1/4" plywood or paneling. A quarter inch is the minimum for the back — if you have thicker scrap, use it, it only adds rigidity.

Draw your desired side profile on the two 60" x 15" blanks — a simple gentle taper is easy to cut and looks clean, or go more elaborate if you're comfortable with a jigsaw. Before you cut, mark where each shelf lands and square those marks across from both sides, so the shelves end up level once the sides are no longer rectangular. Then cut the profiles.

Screw the 1x2 shelf supports to the marked lines with 1-1/4" screws, three per support. Each pair is a different length because the case narrows going up — match them to their level. Round the front edge of each support so there's no sharp corner where a hand reaches in.

Attach the bin bottom to the sides with glue and 2" screws, keeping the back edge flush. Leave a 1" gap between the bin bottom and the bottom of the bookcase, and set it back 3/4" from the front. Then attach the top support by screwing through the sides into its end edges, two 2" screws each side.

Nail the back panel to the case with 1-1/4" nails. Then add the shelves onto their supports, screwing them down with 1-1/4" screws — or fix only the top and middle shelves and leave the others removable if you want adjustable spacing.

Fill all nail and screw holes with putty, sand smooth, and fair the cut curves on the sides. Prime — MDF especially needs a primer coat or it soaks up paint unevenly — then paint your color. This bookcase was designed to be painted, so don't try to stain the exposed sheet-good edges.