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A tidy console table with two drawers, plywood side panels, and a plank top with breadboard ends, on square 2x2 legs. Worth noting up front: the source calls this 'Bailey Console Table with Doors,' but the actual cut list, hardware, and steps all build drawers on euro slides — no door panels or hinges anywhere. This plan follows the buildable content, which is drawers.
The frame is a pocket-hole exercise with one rule to remember: use 3/4" pocket-hole settings whenever any 1x material is in the joint, and 1-1/2" settings only when both pieces are 2x. The plywood side panels tuck between the legs, pocket holes hidden on the inside, and the whole frame must be checked for square before the back cross-braces it.
The drawers are the intermediate part. Build them to the openings and the 14" euro slides, install them inset 3/4" so the applied 1x12 faces land flush, and adjust until they glide. Attach the faces last with a 1/8" gap all around, screwed from inside. The top is a simple 1x6 glue-up with breadboard ends, attached from below after you pull the drawers out to get at the frame.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| 2x2, 8 ftLegs and drawer supports. | 3 each |
| 1x2, 8 ftDrawer supports. | 4 each |
| 1x6, 12 ftTabletop boards. | 1 each |
| 1x12, 4 ftDrawer faces. | 1 each |
| Plywood, 3/4", 24" x 48" panelSide panels; planked 1x also works. | 1 each |
| Plywood, 1/4", full sheetBack and drawer bottoms. | 1 each |
| 1x8, 12 ftDrawer boxes. | 1 each |
| 1x3, 6 ftStretchers and breadboard ends. | 1 each |
| Knobs | 4 each |
| Euro drawer slides, 14" (sets) | 2 each |
| Pocket-hole screws, 1-1/4" and 2-1/2" | 60 each |
| Brad nails, 3/4" and 1-1/4" | 60 each |
| Wood glue | 8 oz |
Overall cost: $$$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Legs2x2 | 4 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 29 1/4" |
| Below-drawer supports2x2 | 2 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 48 1/4" |
| Above-drawer supports1x2 | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 48 1/4" |
| Between-drawer supports1x2 | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 11 1/2" |
| Side panels3/4" plywood | 2 | 3/4" × 13" × 13 3/4" |
| Back stretcher1x3 | 1 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 48 1/4" |
| Side stretchers1x3 | 2 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 13" |
| Back panel1/4" plywood | 1 | 1/4" × 13 3/4" × 50 1/4" |
| Drawer fronts/backs1x8 | 4 | 3/4" × 7 1/4" × 21 1/4" |
| Drawer sides1x8 | 4 | 3/4" × 7 1/4" × 14 1/2" |
| Drawer bottoms1/4" plywood | 2 | 1/4" × 14 1/2" × 22 3/4" |
| Drawer faces1x12 | 2 | 3/4" × 11 1/4" × 23 1/2" |
| Tabletop boards1x6 | 3 | 3/4" × 5 1/2" × 47 7/8" |
| Breadboard ends1x3 | 2 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 16 1/2" |
Buy 16 boards at 8 ft.
3 boards
1 board
1 board
Build the console frame with pocket holes. Use 3/4" pocket-hole settings whenever ANY 1x material is in the joint, and 1-1/2" settings only when joining 2x to 2x. Getting the setting right for each joint keeps the screws from blowing through thin stock.
Drill 3/4" pocket holes along the side and top edges of the plywood panels and attach them to the legs, pocket holes on the inside, flush to the inside of the project. Check the whole frame for square — the back will lock it, but only if it's square first.
Attach the bottom aprons/stretchers with 3/4" pocket holes, hiding them on the back and inside faces.
Attach the 1/4" back with nails and glue to square and stiffen the cabinet.
Build the two drawer boxes from 1x8 with 1/4" bottoms, then install them on the 14" slides inset 3/4" from the front of the cabinet. Adjust until the drawers slide easily.
Attach the 1x12 drawer faces to the boxes, leaving a 1/8" gap around all sides. Secure from inside the box with 1-1/4" screws, and mount the knobs.
Build the top with 3/4" pocket holes and add the breadboard ends. Remove the drawers, then attach the top to the frame with 1-1/4" screws and glue. Sand and finish.
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2 boards
3 boards
2 boards
2 boards
1 board
1 board
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →