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Step-by-step build — 5 steps. Also available as a print sheet.
Set the miter saw to 15° and cut the eight leg pieces (parallel ends, short-point to long-point) first, then the spacer blocks (non-parallel ends, long-point to long-point). Batch by cut type so the saw setting stays consistent. Getting the parallel-vs-non-parallel distinction right is what makes the finished sawhorses sit flat.
Bore a square, centered 5/8" hole where each leg's all-thread will pass, doing it now while the pieces are loose — it's far cleaner than drilling into an assembled leg. A Forstner or spade bit in a drill works; back the exit side to avoid blowout.
Fasten the legs to the underside of the 2x6 caps, flush to the outside edges, with 1-1/2" pocket holes and 2-1/2" pocket screws. This joint carries the whole load, so glue it and don't undersize the screws — it's very sturdy done this way.
Attach the upper spacer support, then the lower one, keeping the all-thread holes aligned so the rod runs straight. Lay the 1x4 slats across the bottom support and screw or nail them down with 2" screws to make a lower shelf that also ties the base together.
Screw the floor flanges to the leg tops (or the underside of the tabletop) with screws no longer than 1-1/2", then thread an all-thread rod into each, with nuts and washers above and below to lock the height. Wind them to standing-desk height or down to coffee-table height. Finally fasten the tabletop to the 2x6 caps.