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This stool mixes a wood base with a metal height-adjust mechanism: the seat is bolted to a floor flange threaded onto a 3/4" all-thread rod, so turning the seat winds it up or down like a piano stool. It's a genuinely useful shop or counter stool, and the mechanism costs a few dollars in hardware.
The base is four 2x2 legs splayed with 15° cuts for stability, joined to a small plywood base block. Read the cut list carefully: the long leg pieces have parallel ends (long-point to short-point) while the cross supports have non-parallel ends (long-point to long-point). Getting those straight is what makes the stool sit flat.
The fussy part — the source is honest about it — is notching the cross supports so the all-thread can pass through the center of the base. Use a table saw or circular saw to cut the notches; it's a bit of work but it's the balance between difficulty and a clean result. Critically, do not fasten the two cross supports to each other, because the all-thread has to pass between them. Thread the flange onto the rod with a bit of pipe-thread tape for grip, and once you set your height, double-check the nuts are still tight so the seat doesn't slowly unwind under you.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| 2x2 board, 8 ftLegs and cross supports. | 1 each |
| 3/4" plywood, 6" x 6"Base block. | 1 each |
| 2x12 or 1x12 for seat roundOr buy a ready-made plywood stool round. | 1 each |
| 3/4" all-thread rod, 16"Cut to length with a jigsaw/hacksaw if you can't find 16". | 1 each |
| 3/4" floor flangeMatch the all-thread; use pipe-thread tape to secure. | 1 each |
| Bolts and washers to match all-thread | 2 each |
| Pocket-hole screws, 2-1/2" | 20 each |
| Screws or lag bolts, 3"Attach cross supports to legs; heads will be visible. | 8 each |
| Wood glue | 2 oz |
Overall cost: $$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Base block3/4" plywood | 1 | 3/4" × 6" × 6" |
| Legs2x2Both ends 15°, parallel (long point to short point). | 4 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 15 1/2" |
| Cross supports2x2Both ends 15°, NOT parallel (long point to long point). Notched for the all-thread. | 4 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 8 3/8" |
Buy 3 boards at 8 ft.
2 boards
1 board
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
The best way to attach the legs to the base block is 1-1/2" pocket holes from underneath with 2-1/2" pocket screws and glue. Confirm the outside-to-outside measurement of the legs matches the plan so the splay is right.
This is the harder part. Notch the cross supports with a table saw or circular saw so the all-thread can pass through the center of the base. It's some work, but it's the right balance of effort and a clean result.
Attach the cross supports to the legs with 3" screws or lag bolts. Do NOT fasten the two cross supports to each other — the all-thread has to pass through the center between them.
Cut the seat round from a 2x12 or 1x12 with a jigsaw (or use a bought plywood round), attach the floor flange to its center, and thread the all-thread into the flange with pipe-thread tape for grip. Thread the assembly into the base with nuts and washers.
Turn the seat to raise or lower it. Once you've set the height, make sure the nuts are still tight so the seat can't slowly unwind under weight. Sand and finish the wood.
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