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DIY Adirondack Chair – How To Build an Adirondack Chair — board plan

What to buy, and which parts come off which board.

Buy 10 boards at 8 ft.

3/4" × 5"

5 boards · 12.0 board feet (includes 15% for knots and defects) · 85% of each board consumed

  1. Board 1 · 10 3/4" left over

    1. Back Leg — 42"
    2. Back Leg — 42"

  2. Board 2 · 18 3/4" left over

    1. Back Slat — 38"
    2. Back Slat — 38"

  3. Board 3 · 18 3/4" left over

    1. Back Slat — 38"
    2. Back Slat — 38"

  4. Board 4 · 5/8" left over

    1. Arm — 34"
    2. Arm — 34"
    3. Front Apron — 26"

  5. Board 5 · 22 5/8" left over

    1. Lower Back Support — 26"
    2. Seat Side — 23"
    3. Seat Side — 23"

3/4" × 3"

2 boards · 2.6 board feet (includes 15% for knots and defects) · 78% of each board consumed

  1. Board 1 · 16 5/8" left over

    1. Middle Back Support — 26"
    2. Arm Rail — 26"
    3. Arm Rail — 26"

  2. Board 2 · 25 5/8" left over

    1. Front Leg — 23"
    2. Front Leg — 23"
    3. Upper Back Support — 23"

3/4" × 2"

3 boards · 3.2 board feet (includes 15% for knots and defects) · 93% of each board consumed

  1. Board 1 · 1 3/8" left over

    1. Seat Slat — 29"
    2. Seat Slat — 29"
    3. Seat Slat — 29"
    4. Arm Brace — 3"
    5. Arm Brace — 3"

  2. Board 2 · 7 5/8" left over

    1. Seat Slat — 29"
    2. Seat Slat — 29"
    3. Seat Slat — 29"

  3. Board 3 · 10 5/8" left over

    1. Seat Slat — 29"
    2. Seat Slat — 29"
    3. Front Seat Slat — 26"

Cuts are listed longest-first, which is how they should be made: the awkward pieces get placed while there is still board to place them on. The layout assumes one end of each board is squared off (1") and that every cut costs 1/8" of kerf — the reason six 16″ parts do not fit on a 96″ board.