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A cabinet mounted this high carries no weight from below, so every bit of its strength has to come from how it hangs — that's what the inset back-top support is for. Get that support piece solidly pocket-screwed to the sides and back before you trust anything on the shelves above it, and add a second support strip at the base if you plan to store anything heavier than lightweight boxes up there.
Unlike the base cabinets in the same kitchen system, the back panel here is genuinely non-structural — it just closes in the interior — which is why it's fine to attach with simple finish nails and glue instead of pocket screws. The face frame follows the same reveal logic as the rest of the run: it overhangs the sides slightly so neighboring cabinets and end panels line up flush across the whole kitchen.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| Pine, 1x2, 8 ftFace frame. | 1 each |
| Pine, 1x3, 4 ftFace frame mid stile. | 1 each |
| Plywood, 3/4", 4x8 sheetSides and top/bottom, ripped to 22-1/4" wide. | 1 each |
| Pine, 1x4, 4 ftBack-top hanging support — plywood scrap also works. | 1 each |
| Plywood, 1/4", 4x8 sheetBack panel. | 1 each |
| Pocket hole screws, 1-1/4" | 1 box |
| Finish nails, 3/4" | 1 box |
| Edge banding | 1 roll |
| Shelf pins | 1 set |
| Cabinet door, full overlay | 2 each |
| Concealed overlay hinges, 1-1/4" | 2 pair |
Overall cost: $$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| SidesPlywood | 2 | 3/4" × 22 1/4" × 15" |
| Top/bottomPlywood | 2 | 3/4" × 22 1/4" × 34" |
| Back-top hanging supportPine or plywood | 1 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 34" |
| BackPlywood | 1 | 1/4" × 35 1/2" × 15" |
| Face frame stilesPine | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 15" |
| Face frame railsPine | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 33" |
| Face frame mid stilePine | 1 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 12" |
Buy 7 boards at 8 ft.
2 boards
1 board
1 board
2 boards
1 board
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
On the outsides of the sides and top/bottom pieces, drill 3/4" pocket holes along the front edges — these will be covered by neighboring cabinets or, on an end cabinet, by matching finished plywood. Then, working from the outsides, drill 3/4" pocket holes on each end of the top and bottom and attach to the sides with 1-1/4" pocket screws and glue.
Drill 3/4" pocket holes along the top edge and ends of the back-top support piece and attach it inset at the back of the carcass — this is what the cabinet actually hangs from, so make sure it's solidly fastened to both sides. Add a second support strip at the base if you're planning to store anything heavier than light boxes.
The back is not structural here — it only closes in the cabinet's interior — so attach it with 3/4" finish nails and glue rather than pocket screws.
Build the face frame as a separate assembly on the bench, then attach the completed frame to the front of the cabinet.
Install the two full-overlay doors with concealed overlay hinges sized for a 1-1/4" overlay.
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