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This is a frame, not a finished playhouse — nothing here covers the openings, which is exactly the point. Leave it bare as a climbing/reading frame, drape fabric over it for an instant fort, or use it as the starting skeleton for a fully paneled build later. The two gable-end triangles are the only parts that need any real geometry: they're built from angled 2x2 cuts at 30° off square, and getting those angles right is what makes the roofline look intentional rather than lopsided.
Build both gable ends first and get them identical before joining them with the long horizontal 2x2s — comparing the two ends side by side is a fast way to catch a cutting mistake before it's locked into the whole frame. A small decorative chimney block on top, purely cosmetic, is a nice final touch that reads as "finished" out of proportion to how little work it takes.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| Pine, 2x2, 8 ft | 8 each |
| Pocket hole screws, 2-1/2" | 1 box |
| Finish nails, 2" | 1 box |
| Wood glue | 3 oz |
Overall cost: $$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Gable peak connectorsPine | 2 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 37" |
| Gable raftersPineLongest point measurement, one end cut at 30° off square. | 4 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 44" |
| Gable side wallsPineBoth ends cut parallel at 30° off square, long point to short point measurement. | 4 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 23 1/8" |
| Long frame connectorsPine | 5 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 48" |
Buy 7 boards at 8 ft.
7 boards
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
Build two identical gable-end triangles from the rafters, side walls, and peak connectors. Use 1-1/2" pocket holes, 2-1/2" pocket hole screws and glue, or countersunk 2-1/2" screws. Some builders nail the peak joint at the top instead for a quick, strong connection.
Compare the two finished gable ends side by side before moving on — this is the easiest point to catch a mismatched angle.
Attach the two gable-end frames together with the long horizontal connectors, using 1-1/2" pocket holes and 2-1/2" pocket hole screws and glue, or countersunk 2-1/2" screws through the ends.
A small block of scrap 2x2 stock attached to the top of one gable adds a chimney detail — purely cosmetic, but it finishes the silhouette.
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