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The bookcase itself is the simplest part: two sides and two shelves, screwed together with the outside edges kept flush. What elevates it is the beadboard back standing in for plain plywood — since this bookcase has no face frame or door hiding the interior, the back panel is visible from the front through the whole depth of the case, so its material choice matters more here than on a closed cabinet.
The footer trim is mitered from base moulding stock or shaped with a router and an ogee bit if you want to profile it yourself — either approach works, and buying pre-shaped base moulding saves the router setup if you don't already have the right bit. Miter the footer's corners at the shortest points as noted in the cut list, which keeps the visible reveal consistent even though the pieces meet at an angle rather than square.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| Pine, 1x12, 10 ft | 3 each |
| Pine, 1x3, 10 ft | 1 each |
| Beadboard, 1/4", cut to 41-1/2" x 32-1/2" | 1 each |
| Pine, 1x2, 12 ft | 1 each |
| Pine, 1x4, 6 ftOr base moulding, pre-shaped, if not routing your own footer profile. | 1 each |
| Brad nails, 1-1/4" | 1 box |
| Wood glue | 3 oz |
| Sandpaper, assorted grit | 3 sheet |
Overall cost: $$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| SidesPine | 2 | 3/4" × 11 1/4" × 32 1/2" |
| ShelvesPine | 2 | 3/4" × 11 1/4" × 40" |
| Front top trimPine | 1 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 40" |
| Beadboard backBeadboard | 1 | 1/4" × 41 1/2" × 32 1/2" |
| Footer supportPine | 1 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 40" |
| Side footersPineMitered at the shortest points — router an ogee profile or use pre-shaped 4" base moulding. | 2 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 11 1/2" |
| Front footerPineMitered at the shortest points. | 1 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 41 1/2" |
| Back tabletop trimPine | 1 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 44 1/2" |
| Front tabletopPine | 1 | 3/4" × 11 1/4" × 44 1/2" |
Buy 7 boards at 8 ft.
3 boards
1 board
1 board
1 board
1 board
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
Fasten the shelves to the sides, keeping the outside edges flush.
Add the front top trim piece, keeping outside edges flush.
Attach the beadboard panel to the back of the case — since this bookcase has no closed sides or door, the back is visible through the whole depth of the shelves, so keep it centered and square.
Attach the footer support, keeping the front edge flush. Miter the side and front footer pieces at their shortest points and attach — route an ogee profile into the top edge yourself, or use pre-shaped 4" base moulding to skip that step.
Attach the back tabletop trim piece, then the front tabletop piece — this completes the framing.
Sand every surface and edge, then finish.
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