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The two side panels are cut and drilled as true mirror images of each other, which matters more here than on a single-door cabinet: pocket holes go on the OUTSIDE of both panels, and it's genuinely easy to drill one panel backward if you're not deliberately checking which side is which before you drill. Getting the mirroring right is what lets the face frame hide every pocket hole on the finished cabinet.
The two drawer openings are sized slightly differently on purpose — not a mistake to fix, but what makes the drawer FACES come out identical, with the face frame's bottom rail centered between them rather than the openings themselves. This is a small detail that's easy to "correct" into a worse-looking cabinet if you don't know it's intentional.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| Plywood, 3/4", 4x8 sheetRipped into 22-1/4" strips for sides/shelf, 5" strips for base supports, and scrap for top supports. | 1 each |
| Plywood, 1/4", for back | 1 each |
| Pine, 1x2, 8 ft | 2 each |
| Pocket hole screws, 1-1/4" | 1 box |
| Finish nails, 3/4" | 1 box |
| Drawer slide sets, 21-1/2" to 22-1/4" interior length | 3 set |
| Drawer/door face material, 3/4" plywood or MDFCut into one small and two large full-overlay faces. | 1 each |
Overall cost: $$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Side panelsPlywood, 3/4"Cut as true mirror images; pocket holes go on the outside of both. | 2 | 3/4" × 22 1/4" × 34 1/2" |
| Bottom shelfPlywood, 3/4" | 1 | 3/4" × 22 1/4" × 16" |
| Bottom supportsPlywood, 3/4" | 2 | 3/4" × 5" × 16" |
| Top supportsPlywood, 3/4"Width can vary somewhat. | 2 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 16" |
| BackPlywood, 1/4" | 1 | 1/4" × 17 1/2" × 32" |
| Face frame stilesPine 1x2 | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 27" |
| Face frame top/mid railsPine 1x2 | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 18" |
| Face frame bottom railPine 1x2 | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 15" |
| Small drawer faceDrawer/door face material | 1 | 3/4" × 5 1/2" × 17 1/2" |
| Large drawer facesDrawer/door face material | 2 | 3/4" × 11" × 17 1/2" |
Buy 8 boards at 8 ft.
1 board
1 board
1 board
1 board
1 board
2 boards
1 board
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
Rip the side panels to 22-1/4" wide for a finished 24" cabinet depth — keep every cabinet in a run the same depth. Cut the toe kick notch in each side with a jigsaw; a toe-kick pattern block makes repeat cuts consistent. Drill 3/4" pocket holes along the OUTSIDES of both side panels — remember the two panels are mirror images of each other.
Attach the two base supports to one side panel, with the side panel's pocket holes on the outside.
Attach the bottom shelf to the base supports and the first side panel.
Attach the remaining side panel to the base supports and bottom shelf.
Add the back panel with glue and finish nails or staples.
Build the face frame separately, then attach it to the front of the cabinet with 3/4" pocket holes. Size one drawer opening slightly larger than the other on purpose — this is what lets the two drawer faces come out the same size, with the bottom rail centered between them.
Build drawer boxes to fit your chosen slides and the cabinet openings, then install the slides and drawers.
Attach the full-overlay drawer faces to the fronts of the installed drawers.
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